Time Barrel looks at time distortion experienced by surfers getting barreled. This book highlights the colorful quotes contributed by surfers describing their experience of time in the barrel.
This is the most entertaining of his works and deserves a loud applause. To be intrigued, you must read the earlier Soul Surfer Johnny books. To be truly informed, everyone should read his earlier Awakening the Soul series.
The incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning photography of monster waves fill the pages of this collection.
This eclectic mix of surfing stories has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong.
Mark Kreidler takes readers inside the waves, inside the lives of the competitors, and introduces them to Jeff Clark, the man who first dared to ride Maverick’s.
The second edition is physically enhanced and enriched, still all good stuff, worth the ring on your butt it will cause if you keep it in the bathroom.
Written by veteran pro surfing journalist Ben Marcus, this guide is illustrated with instructional photos and drawings, providing step-by-step instructions, background history—as well as stories and tips from legendary surfers and ...
The profiles by accomplished author and editor Ben Marcus are complemented by stunning color photography by leading adventure photojournalist Lucia Griggi. Featured surfers: 1. Rochelle Ballard 2. Wrenna Delgado 3. Bethany Hamilton 4.